Silhouette Tutorial: Circle Purse

Hope you are enjoying the purse kick that I seem to be on this week--I know I'm having fun! This is the third purse design from my purse series, for the Silhouette Cutting machine--and NOW other cutting machines, as silhouette now offers SVG versions! If you missed the other purses, you can see the barrel purse here, and the 2 strap purse here.

If you want to see other purse tutorials on my blog, here are a few others:

Bucket Purse

Circle Handle Purses

Multiple Purse Tutorial

Purse Gift Card holder

Two Strap Purse

Barrel Purse

Here is the complete assembly tutorial:

To make this box, you will need one of these cutting files: 
Silhouette and SVG file: Circle Purse Design ID #55552

Sizing:
Default size approximately 6 inches wide at the middle of the circle by a little over 8 inches tall (top of the straps.)

Paper: 
I used the Playful Plaid/Navy paper from my Rough & Tumble line for Carta Bella. I also used Periwinkle card stock from Bazzill.

Other Supplies:
Gold Tone Brads
Tombow Mono Multi Liquid Glue
wonder clips
adhesive magnets or velcro

Equipment:
You will also need a Silhouette Cameo or Portrait machine to cut this box. This is designed for a 12X12 mat, so you will need to follow the instructions below if you have the portrait machine.

Portrait machine adaptations: 
You can cut this file at full size if you move the purse strap onto the live cutting area at an angle and rearrange all of the pieces. If you do not want to turn the strap on an angle for fear of wasting too much paper, you can scale this down to 90%.  In the Studio software, ungroup and rearrange the parts to fit on the live cutting area that you will want to use in your first cutting pass, and move the parts off the cutting area that you won't need. Keep in mind which parts you want to cut in which color card stock, and arrange accordingly.

Studio Software set up:
If you are using a Silhouette Cameo, when you open the file, it will all fit on the live cutting area. You can choose to cut the purse out of one color, or choose to use two colors. An easy way to achieve two colors is to use double sided card stock. You will only then need to cut the buckles separately if you want those to be contrasting accents. Another way to achieve a two tone look in an easy way is to cut this file twice out of two different papers. Then swap out some of the parts so that you mix in some contrasting elements.

Photo 1: Cut all the pieces out. Remember to choose some contrasting pieces if you wish.

Photo 2: Glue the contrasting pieces to the front and back of the purse.

Photos 3 - 6: These photos are sort of funny. I couldn't decide which side of my paper to use, and didn't realize that I included both sets of photos in the steps until I started writing them. That explains the flip flop between the plaid and the navy.  I finally decided on making the wide strap navy and the buckle plaid...it gave the whole purse a little more "pop." Okay...so once you decide which side of your paper you are going to use, fold the straps on the fold line and glue the smaller strap to the wider strap with a few dots of glue on the side where the holes line up.  Thread the buckle through the narrow strap that will end up on the front. You want the decorative buckle holes to show through the buckle (the buckle holes are wider than the brad holes.)

Photo 7: Find the purse back piece (it has the fold-over round flap on top.) Now carefully fold on the dotted lines that fall between the decorative stitch dotted lines. 

Photos 8 and 9: Now find both of the side pieces (the pieces with the "teeth.") Now fold the bottom tab on both of the side pieces and glue them to the bottom flap of the purse as shown. 

Use a fast drying paper glue like Tombow Mono Multi Liquid Glue. After the glue is dried, you will train a curve into the side pieces by bending and shaping them with your hands. You will see that I also added the 4 bottom brads at this point. I actually recommend doing that after step 16 when the front and back of the purse are attached at the bottom. That way you can thread the brads through all the bottom layers. (I learn as I go...and pass on what I learn to you.)

Photo 10-11: Now that the sides have a little curve to them, glue the teeth around the edge, to the back of the purse. Be patient with this step as you may need to do a few teeth at a time, to make sure your glue is holding. Continue to curve and glue the side around the edge until you get to the top. 

Photo 12: Attach the purse flap strap to the back of the purse with the two brads. (you will find brad holes in both the flap strap and the back of the purse. Make sure that you've lined everything up correctly.)

Photo 13: Glue the side contrasting pieces on. This step may be better before you attach the sides to the back of the purse. Honestly, I didn't have contrasting side pieces in the first version of the file, then I decided when I was at about this step that some contrast on the side would look nice so I added them to the file later. That's why this step is a little out of order. 

Photos 14-16: Find the front of the purse fold the tab then glue it to the bottom of the back of the purse.

Photos 17-19: Now glue the teeth tabs on the side pieces to the front of the purse being sure to follow the curve.

Photo 20: Round the top purse flap a bit to shape it.

Photo 21: Get the hand strap and attach it with brads to both sides.

Photos 22-24: We will now add an adhesive magnet or adhesive velcro to the front of the purse. Cut the magnet down to size, or better yet, get the little circle kind and you won't have to cut it. Put two pieces of magnet together, take the backing off one of the magnets. While the magnets are together, press it onto the purse flap. Now take off the other backing on the other magnet. Fold the purse flap down where it would close naturally. Press the magnet set onto the front of the purse. This is how you make sure that the flap and the purse magnets line up. Now open the flap and press the magnet even firmer on the flap and on the front of the purse. 

You can dress up your purse with glitter spray, flower embellishments or putting a little rhinestone bling on them.

Hope you enjoyed the project. Thanks for stopping by today!

Here are some of the supplies (and other goodies) used in today's project:

 

Silhouette Tutorial: Barrel Purse

So this week in the Silhouette digital cutting file store, you might notice that I'm a little bit on a purse kick. Like shoes...a girl can never have enough purses. Right? So I'm introducing 3 new purse-inspired cutting files that have been super fun (and challenging) to design. If you missed the other purses, you can see the circle purse, and the 2 strap purse here.

If you like them...I'll likely design some more. If you have a favorite purse, let me know about it by leaving a comment on my blog. While I won't replicate your favorite purse, I may use it for inspiration for additional paper purses. 

Today's tutorial is for my barrel purse. It will not be available in the Silhouette store until Monday (or later depending on how fast the queue is moving.) I'll post a link here when it is available. 

Just a word of warning...with all the little details in these purses, they are also a little trickier to make than most boxes. However, don't fret, you can do this! I have put together a step by step tutorial to help you have success with this file. This barrel purse is the most challenging of the three purses, so I'm posting it first.  

To make this box, you will need this file: 
Silhouette store Barrel Purse design ID #55520

Paper: 
I used the plaid paper from my Giddy Up! Boy line for Carta Bella. I also used solid double sided card stock from Carta Bella in colors Frozen Beige/Rouge.

Other Supplies:
Brushed Nickel Brads
screw head brad (for latch)
Tombow Mono Multi Liquid Glue
wonder clips

Equipment:
You will also need a Silhouette Cameo or Portrait machine to cut this box. This is designed for a 12X12 mat, so you will need to follow the instructions below if you have the portrait machine.

Portrait machine adaptations: 
Select all the cut lines do not ungroup before this step. Choose Object from the top menu. Choose transform. Choose scale options. A window will now appear on the right side of your screen giving you scaling options. While everything is still selected, look for the box below the word "custom" in the new side panel menu, and put 90% there, then click apply. Now in the Studio software, ungroup and rearrange the parts to fit on the live cutting area that you will want to use in your first pass, and move the parts off the cutting area that you won't need. Keep in mind which parts you want to cut in which color card stock, and arrange accordingly.

Studio Software set up:
If you are using a Silhouette Cameo, when you open the file, it will look like this on the screen:

Notice how the pieces are arranged. Do not ungroup the parts if you plan on following where I chose to make contrasting parts. We will use the "shift over" method. For the first cutting pass, make sure that the parts on your live cutting area appear like the screen shot above. Go ahead and cut your card stock.

Now in the studio software, select everything on your screen, and shift it over so that these pieces are now in the live cutting area. No need to ungroup...as seen in the screen shot below, I arranged the parts together that would cut in the same color. Now put your contrasting card stock on your mat and send it through to cut.

Please note the two sets of squished ovals and half ovals. I have marked them in the file as either the inside pieces or the outside pieces. The inside pieces are slightly smaller. So make sure to keep those pieces separate so that you don't mix them up in the steps below.

Assembly:

Photo 1: Find the two rectangle pieces with the "teeth." Fold the flap back on the dotted line as shown in step one above. Put a good paper adhesive on the tab and glue it to the other rectangle piece. Make sure the "brad holes" are not at the glued edge. (if necessary, flip it around if it is oriented that way.) Fold all the teeth down as shown in the photo.

No Photo: Find the two squished oval pieces that were marked "outside oval pieces" in the file. The wider flatter part of the oval will be the part that ends up on the bottom of the barrel purse. Position this piece on a ruler and find the center of the oval. Then mark at the bottom of both of the ovals lightly with a pencil where you found the center point.

Photos 2-4: Now we will attach one of the barrel sides to these squished oval pieces. Put glue on each of the "teeth." Now, starting at the marked center point, start attaching the teeth to the oval. You may need to "train" your paper by working a curve into it first with your hands. Also, it may be helpful to use a wonder clip to hold the first tooth in place as you are working around the oval with the other teeth. Only HALF of this oval will be covered by the teeth.  Now, take the other oval, and repeat this step on the other end of the same barrel side.

Photos 5-9: Now we will attach the half oval pieces to the other barrel side. First, curl up the other barrel side so that it follows the curve around the squished oval. We won't be attaching this side to that oval, but rather using it's shape to help us as we attach the half oval piece. Put glue on each of these teeth. Now attach the half oval by making sure that you are lining it up with the squished oval. (Make sure that you are attaching the correct side, and that the wider part of the half oval ends up at the bottom.) Repeat this step on the opposite end of the barrel side. Clips will be handy in holding the first and last teeth for this step too.

Now that you have completed the most complicated steps of this purse...we will move onto the easy stuff.

Photos 10 & 11: Find the reinforcing interior hinge. Fold it in half. Glue it to the fold on the inside of the purse. This will help give the purse strength at that fold line. If you would prefer even more strength, you can attach a piece of fabric or "gaffers book tape" instead.

Photos 12 & 13: Now for those interior squished ovals. Put glue on the entire surface of them, then smooth them onto the inside of each of the ends so that they cover the teeth and give the ends more strength. (You may want to do this step right after attaching the outside squished ovals.)

Photos 14-16: We will now work on the straps. Find one of the longer straps, and attach it to the wide end of the triangular piece with a brad. Take one of the shorter straps and attach it to the narrow end of the triangular piece with a brad. Find the barrel side of the purse that has the three holes in a row at the top. Now find the corresponding brad holes on that side of the purse and attach the triangle piece with the straps by pushing the brads through the holes and extending the "wings" on the brad.

Photo 17: Curve the top strap around and attach it to another triangle piece with a brad and attach this to the same side of the purse in the other corresponding brad holes.

Photo 18: Now this step can be done after completing the assembly of the straps...but I am adding it now so you can see the difference in the sides. Find the purse flap piece and the locking mechanism oval part. Glue that to the purse flap.

Photos 19 & 20: Start attaching the purse flap to the purse with brads by inserting the brads through the corresponding holes on the flap and the purse.

Photos 21-23: Okay...now we will finish attaching the straps. Find the other short strap, and push a brad through the narrow end of this triangle piece, attaching the strap and the purse. Bring the short straps around the bottom of the purse and attach them to the opposite side of the purse with the triangle pieces and brads. Create the other handle on this side in the same way as instructed above.

One thing to note about the straps. You should not glue these to the purse. You will want them to be "free moving" as to not interfere with the hinge motion when opening and closing the purse.

Photo 23: Attach the rounded latch piece to the opposite of the flap side of the purse through the corresponding brad hole. I used a brad that looks like the top of a screw head.

Photo 24: This photo shows a close up of the latch. Insert the latch through the oval on the purse flap, then turn the latch 90 degrees to lock. You may have to fold the latch slightly when putting it through the oval hole on the purse flap, then fold it back down after you get it through.

Hints with closing the purse, you can put the half squished ovals on the outside or the inside of the purse when you close it. There is an "underlap" tab on the top of the purse that goes under the flap side of the purse when you close it. This ensures a neat edge when closing the purse.

I hope you have fun with this file! It would be a great one for treats!